The Glamour of Italian Fashion at the V&A gives an
interesting overview of the Italian fashion Industry from the end of the 2nd
World War, which left the region stricken and in dire poverty, right up to
today. Successfully weaving traditional artisanal practices and the handmade
roots of Italian clothing, with politics, the influence of Hollywood and
America, the shift to ready-to-wear and incorporating the Italian spirit of
excess and playful sexiness, the exhibition successfully takes us on a succinct
journey through an industry which has undergone extreme changes in the latter
half of the century.
Up until the resolution of the Second World War, the fascist
regime in Italy used garments on enforce an idea of nationhood. Clothing had a
label of approval from the ENM (the national fashion board). In stark contrast,
after the Second World War fascism became a source of unease amongst the
population. In response to this hunger for individuality and a new sartorial
personality for the Italian populace, a businessman Giovanni Battista Giorgini
launched the first internationally recognised Italian fashion shows at the Sala
Bianca in Palazzo Pitti, Florence. Thus, the well renowned Italian penchant for
glamour and extravagance was born.
Fashion aficionados will no doubt enjoy the examples of
design from the 70s onwards including Cavali’s Native Indian themed ensemble and
the audacious fringed leather trousers and matching waist coat from the 1992
Autumn/Winter Versace collection. Classic Moschino – which is currently having somewhat
of a revival – is also featured in all its irreverent glory, including the Made in Italy Dress from Spring/Summer
1991 and the Yellow Pages Jacket from
Spring/Summer 1994. Visitors are reminded of the mocking sense of humour Franco
Moschino employed in his designs which initially made the design house so
popular.
The highlight of the exhibition is undoubtedly the section charting
the era from the 1950s to the 1960s. The dazzling haute couture gowns worn by
Lee Razidwell and Merella Agnelli to Truman Capote’s famous Black and White
Ball, as well as a slinky gown worn by Ava Gardner and a stunning white gown
made for Audrey Hepburn. Hollywood’s romance with Italy resulted
in two decades of uninhibited glamour that still captures of the heart of
fashion lovers and remains the jewel in the crown of Italian style today.
Valentino poses with models (1967)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday (1953)
The Glamour of Italian Fashion at the V&A gives an
interesting overview of the Italian fashion Industry from the end of the 2nd
World War, which left the region stricken and in dire poverty, right up to
today. Successfully weaving traditional artisanal practices and the handmade
roots of Italian clothing, with politics, the influence of Hollywood and
America, the shift to ready-to-wear and incorporating the Italian spirit of
excess and playful sexiness, the exhibition successfully takes us on a succinct
journey through an industry which has undergone extreme changes in the latter
half of the century.
Up until the resolution of the Second World War, the fascist
regime in Italy used garments on enforce an idea of nationhood. Clothing had a
label of approval from the ENM (the national fashion board). In stark contrast,
after the Second World War fascism became a source of unease amongst the
population. In response to this hunger for individuality and a new sartorial
personality for the Italian populace, a businessman Giovanni Battista Giorgini
launched the first internationally recognised Italian fashion shows at the Sala
Bianca in Palazzo Pitti, Florence. Thus, the well renowned Italian penchant for
glamour and extravagance was born.
Fashion aficionados will no doubt enjoy the examples of
design from the 70s onwards including Cavali’s Native Indian themed ensemble and
the audacious fringed leather trousers and matching waist coat from the 1992
Autumn/Winter Versace collection. Classic Moschino – which is currently having somewhat
of a revival – is also featured in all its irreverent glory, including the Made in Italy Dress from Spring/Summer
1991 and the Yellow Pages Jacket from
Spring/Summer 1994. Visitors are reminded of the mocking sense of humour Franco
Moschino employed in his designs which initially made the design house so
popular.
The highlight of the exhibition is undoubtedly the section charting
the era from the 1950s to the 1960s. The dazzling haute couture gowns worn by
Lee Razidwell and Merella Agnelli to Truman Capote’s famous Black and White
Ball, as well as a slinky gown worn by Ava Gardner and a stunning white gown
made for Audrey Hepburn. Hollywood’s romance with Italy resulted
in two decades of uninhibited glamour that still captures of the heart of
fashion lovers and remains the jewel in the crown of Italian style today.
Valentino poses with models (1967)
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday (1953)
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